14% abv, Domaine de Comtes Mediterraneens, La Livinière, imported by Verity Wine Partners, New York, NY. Cork closure: natural. Biodynamic calendar: root day.
Situated north of the Canal du Midi, about equdistance between Carcassonne and Narbonne is the appellation of Minervois in the hills of the Haut-Languedoc. Longtime a source of rustic value wines, this area was first recognized as an AOC in 1985 and was recognized for the Cru of La Livinière more recently. Known for Syrah-based wines, Minervois can produce some exciting red wines and has just started to scratch the surface regarding white wine (only 2%) and rosé (4%) in terms of production. So if Syrah is king here, why not take a look at one of the more heralded producers: Château Maris?
Run by Englishman winemaker Robert Eden, since the late 90s, the 50ha domaine of Maris became EcoCert (organic) in 2002, and has climbed the ladder to become biodynamic since 2004 and Demeter certified since ’08. They employ composting, water recycling, horse plowing in the vineyards and have added environmental LEED certifications to boot. The 2016 ‘Les Planels’ is 95% Syrah with 5% Grenache Noir grown on a gentle slope over a mosaic of ancient soils ranging from quartz and sandstone to schist and limestone. The Syrah cuvée is from 35+ year old vines fermented in concrete with native yeast and aged in 500-liter French oak barrels (1/3 new demi-muids) for a year. I was rather excited to try this.
Tasting note: The 2016 ‘Les Planels’ is deep ruby in color with hints of purple and a clean nose of medium intensity with aromas of violet, carnation, dark cherry, stewed plum, and herbs de Provence. On the palate this wine is dry with medium acidity, medium body, medium tannins, medium+ alcohol, medium+ flavor intensity and a medium finish with flavors of lavender, red and yellow plum, tarragon leaf, bay leaf and a touch of yogurt and white pepper. It’s very clean and focused in flavors, not quite simple, but lacking in the department of smoke, spice, and gamey and earthy aromas and flavors one might expect from a wine from Syrah that is farmed in accordance with biodyanamic principals in the warm Mediterranean coast of south France; this is a good example that things aren’t always as they would seem in the world of wine. Sometimes we just set are presuppositions aside and enjoy what we are given by man and nature, alike. Drink now or through 2024, this wine is rather good: 8.8/10.