12.5% abv, Philippe Héritier, Poisy, imported by Fass Selections, Irvine, CA. Cork closure: natural. Biodynamic calendar: root day.
The wines of Savoie can be pure magic: alpine cool-climate wines with aromatic intensity and bracing acidity. The grape varieties for white wines are mostly (with the exception of Roussanne) fascinating indigenous specialties. Altesse is considered the star variety with good aging potential and the ability to craft distinctive terroir-driven wines and is susbstantial enough to qualify for one of the region’s few designated appellations: Roussette de Savoie AOC. The wines of Domaine des Orchis (a nod to the naturally growing orchids on the healthy limestone and glacial soils) come from the Haut-Savoie near the village of Frangy, the high mountain vineyards northwest of Lake Annecy with breathtaking views on Mont Blanc. The wines are fermented using natural yeast (“vin élaboré grâce aux levures présentes naturellement sur le raisin” is inscribed on the label). The farming has been done biodynamically since 2009, and certified organic since 2011 at this relatively young (established 2007) wine estate. Philippe is quite the small holder (4ha in total) and works the wines from the vineyard to the cellar with passion. The Altesse is grown on a previously abandoned south-facing vineyard site so steep that it was almost lost to time. The winemaking consists of fine lees contact in neutral oak barrels for over a year with bottling at very low sulfur levels.
Tasting note: the 2019 Domaine des Orchis ‘Quintessence d’Altesse’ is pale gold in color with a nose of medium+ intensity yielding aromas of lilac, orange blossom, wet hay, quince, pear skin, and cheese. On the palate this wine is dry with medium+ acidity, medium body, medium alcohol, medium+ flavor intensity and a medium finish with flavors of almond, pink lady apple, Bartlett pear, nectarine, Hawthorne, bergamot (almost a touch of earl grey), acacia honey, tarragon leaf, and a creamy leesy touch of honeyed flan. This is a divine treat, drink now or through 2028. This wine is very good 9.4/10.
