14% abv, Les Vignobles Saint Didier Parnac, Parnac, imported by Vinovia Wine Group, Rancho Santa Margarita, CA. Cork closure: natural. Biodynamic calendar: leaf day.
Ah, Cahors, the old black wines of France! Here in the Southwest of France, near the Lot River, the wines have a magical reputation of being the preferred drink of the royal courts and Papal palace; they were a favorite of King Henry II of England, Emperor Peter the First of Prussia and Pope John XXII. These black wines can be quite a delight but they also have a reputation for being quite unforgiving in their astute youth. But a new generation of winemakers are crafting fleshy, juicy wines with a core of nice Merlot-like fruit and balanced structure.
Case in point, the Fabre family of Argentine who are transitioning some of the most famous terroir on the terraces of Château Saint Didier Parnac. Hervé and Diane Joyaux Fabre, vignerons in Mendoza and Patagonia, Argentina, bought the Cahors estate in 2015. They call the terroir, which sits on a steep Jurassic limestone cliff, “mythical”. The grapes for the Mission de Picpus cuvée are sourced from the valley and steep hillsides to impart a duality to the character of this wine to have both grace and structure while remaining 100% Malbec. This is far from their top wine on the estate, but it is a noble effort. The Malbec grapes are maceration from 20 to 25 days and post-fermentation is carried out at around 25ºC. The use cultured yeast to coax out the fruit of these old Malbec grapes and empty some pump-overs and lees aging in stainless steel and concrete vats with a light oak contact for the Mission de Picpus cuvée.
Tasting note: The Picpus is deep ruby in color with a clean nose of medium+ intensity with aromas of plum, blackberry, vanilla, golden raisin, and Turkish figs. On the palate, this wine is dry with medium+ acid, medium+ tannins, medium+ alcohol, medium body, pronounced flavor intensity and a medium finish with flavors of black cherry, black plum, damson, date, Turkish Delight, clove, sage, cedar and vanilla bean. Drink now or through 2025. There is generous freshness of acidity at the core of this to match the grippy tannins and elevated alcohol; in the end, there is a favorable balance here, although not perfect, and a lot of charming character despite the slightly terse finish; this wine is very good: 9.3/10.