13% abv, Gaec Ilarria, Irouleguy, imported by Charles Neal Selections, Richmond, CA. Cork closure: diam. Biodynamic calendar: flower day.

Irouleguy is a curious place. More akin to Basque Country Spain in culture, tradition, language and winemaking, than France, here you also find the only AOC wines in the village of Irouleguy for this area in the Pyranées Mountains on terraced sloped to protect from the strong coastal winds. Only about 15% of what is considered the Baque Country is in France, while the lion’s share occupies Spanish soil. Distinct sandstone soils are found amongst limestone and some clay and the appellation of Irouleguy favors mostly red wines (60%) but dues produce some rosé and white wines as well.

The wines of Domaine Ilarria are produced by Peio Espil are certified organic (Agriculture Biologique), who explained the winemaking to his imported Charles Neal as such: “All grapes are 100% hand-harvested and destemmed. Only indigenous yeasts are used, and all wines are fermented in stainless steel tanks. The white wine then spends 12 months in 700-liter used oak barrels, while the red spends between 16 and 24 months in 225-liter used oak barrels. All wines are unfined and only the white and rosé are lightly filtered before being bottled.”

The 2016 Irouleguy Rouge is a blend of 55% Tannat, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged sur lie in both tank and barrel for around 20 month before bottling. This was a big funky, meaty wine, and I loved every sip of it. The wines of Ilarria seem to have real character and you are welcome to call me a big fan from here on out!

Tasting note: the 2016 Ilarria is medium garnet in color, with a clean nose of medium+ intensity with aromas of dried rose petals, potpourri, earth, forest floor, red currant, dried cranberry, currant leaf, herbs de Provence, garrigue, pepper and sage. On the palate this wine is dry, with medium+ acidity, medium tannins, medium body, medium alcohol, medium+ flavor intensity and a medium finish with flavors of rosehip, cedar, tar, raspberry, Morello cherry, dried currant, stewed plum, fennel, green pepper, olive tampenade, smoked meat, mint jelly, and a strong dried tobacco streak. This wine is very good: drink now or through 2028. 9.3/10