13% abv, Le Touvet, Laurent Fondimare and Wilfrid Debroize, imported by Fass Selections, Irvine, CA. Cork closure: natural. Biodynamic calendar: root day.
Here comes another exciting wine from the up-and-coming IGP Isere, an area between Grenoble and Chambéry. The producer Domaine de Rutissons is located near Lake Annecy, yet they produce wines of another world, utilizing long-lost indigenous grape varieties and natural winemaking techniques to craft wines of distinctive character utilizing biodynamic viticulture and winemaking. This cuvée was fermented need using natural yeasts, aged partially in tank and small oak barrel before assemblage and bottled with only a minute addition of sulfur.
The importer, Lyle Fass, breaks down this odd grape variety for us: “So what the heck is Etraire d’Huy? Well there are only 5 hectares in the whole world and Rutissons has a few of them. It’s an ancient grape and typical of Grésivaudan which is the sub area of Isere where Rutissons is located. The name “Etraire” reminds one of the narrowness of its ovoid grain. The “D’Huy” is the name of the downstream torrent of Chartreuse massif in St Ismier. It’s low in alcohol but has very good acidity and makes a super silky wine that is very subtle. It has silky tannins that remind me of high end Chambolle or Volnay. The color is always a deep violet and it’s full bodied and tannic when young. But with age it gets incredible. The terroir comes through. That Alpine sensibility. When young they are full bodied and tannic (but ripe and juicy tannins that are glorious) but with age comes this insane silkiness as well.”
Tasting note: Rutisson’s Etraire de la d’Huy is deep ruby in color with a clean nose of medium intensity with very floral aromas of lavender, violet, wildflowers, potpourri, blackberry, sour plum and herbs. On the palate this wine is dry with high acid, high tannin, medium body, medium alcohol, medium+ flavor intensity and a medium+ finish with flavors of violet, acacia, sour cherry, sour plum, goji Berry, pomegranate, tarragon leaf, balsamic, raw leather, earth, cedar, tobacco, tar and clay mineral. This wine was absolutely packed with layers of primary and secondary flavors and was a bit natty in flavor, although in the best possible of ways. It’s delicious, a bit hard on the tannins, and will drink best if you hold until 2024 or, possibly, longer. This wine is outstanding and shows much promise: 9.6/10.