13% abv. Chablis, France. Imported by Boisset America, St. Helena, CA

I’m an admirer of Lucie Depuyd, geologist and winemaker of the historic (1814) house of J. Moreau. Her wines always walk a tightrope of balance with the low sulfur additions and sparing use of fine lees contact and oak for the premier and grand cru wines. Although 2016 may not be the vintage of the decade, the more I revisit these wines, I find they’re ripe and generous while still showcasing their terroirs precisely. There is much pleasure to be found! 

Vaucopin tasting note: pale gold color with a clean nose of medium intensity with aromas of creme fraiche, marmalade, fennel and honeycomb. She’s dry with medium-plus acidity, medium-plus body, and a medium plus finish of quince, pear, honey, and a touch of cream and mineral on the finish. Drink now, but could go 5+ more. Very good! 9.3/10

Montmains tasting note: pale gold, a clean nose of medium intensity with aromas of lilac and honeysuckle, apricot and buttermilk. Bone dry with high acidity, medium-plus body, and a long finish with flavors of white flowers, lemon skin, nectarine, pear and butter. Drink now but could go 7+ more. Very very good, 9.4/10

Overall, the Vaucopin is a riper wine as expected by its real estate on the right bank of the River Serein nearer the famous Grand Cru slopes; here, facing east and on Kimmeridgran marl, Chardonnay can find an opulence. Yet, the Montmains cannot be underestimated! Although located on the left bank, here the wines may be more austere in young, but they develop more slowly and show a nice potential for cellaring.