Jean-Claude Boisset Bourgogne Aligoté ‘Les Moutots’ 2018

13.5% abv, Les Ursulines at Nuits-Saint-Georges (Cote d’Or), imported by Boisset Collection USA, St. Helena, CA.

Aligoté, the other white grape from Bourgogne, in fact shares the same parentage as Chardonnay. Sisters and progeny of Pinot Noir x Gouais Blanc, Aligoté and Chardonnay can both produce acid-driven wines with notes of mineral and stonefruit, although Aligoté may be the more easygoing sibling who lets her hair down and wears yoga pants out on the town. Many winemakers treat her affably, producing simple but pleasant fruit-forward wines with a lean edge of acidity that serve as a racy aperitif of the dumping ground for some Crème de Cassis (Burgundy’s famous black currant liquor), affectionally known as a Kir. But just how good can Aligoté be? Winemakers seem to be taking it more seriously–the grape is now in the top 25 white varieties produced worldwide–and in Burgundy, especially, there is now a professional trade organizations called Les Aligoteurs who have banded together to promote their wines from this bourgeoning variety.

The answer, in the case of Jean-Claude Boisset’s Bourgogne Aligoté, is outstanding! A sentiment I never thought I would lavish on a bottle of Aligoté. JC winemakers Gregory Patriat (formerly of Domaine LeRoy) and Laure Guilloteau have taken the micro-négotiant’s effort to new heights by working with the ‘Les Moutots’ climate in the village of Chorey-lès-Beaune, and by treating their Aligoté just as they do their serious village wines from fine Chardonnay. The vines are 50+ years in age, and the juice rested gently (no battonage or racking) in French oak barrels (30% new) for 14 months! This wine may not be the queen of their range, but she deserves the Château du Chenonceau. Not to mention, 2018 is a vintage for Burgundy lovers to be very excited about; a vintage of “abundance and excellence,” according to Jean-Claude.

The 2018 ‘Les Moutots’ is pale gold in color with a clean nose of medium+ intensity with aromas of lemon skin, white peach, nectarine, wet stones and crème fresh. On the palate, this wine has high acid, a medium+ body, balanced alcohol and a long intense finish with notes of mineral, cream, brioche, apricot, peach, nectarine and a touch of zesty spearmint. The balance and length here did not fail to impress and the density and complexity of bright fruit was remarkable. Drink now or through 2026. Outstanding!; 9.5/10.